COUNTER COVER 47

ORIGINS

Many of the large cloths that made up the domestic bridal trousseau, such as bedspreads, were divided into squares embroidered with large motifs. The division of the cloth into smaller squares was done because large bedspreads required the joining of three different cloths, using simple seams (randas) or intricate interlaced pieces (entredós) by crocheting or unravelling (deshilado).

Without being able to determine their origins with certainty, we are able to speak of a unity in their material elaboration. All popular Serrano embroidery cloths contain vegetal arabesques that emerge from animal figures; the presence of lotuses, palmettes and tulips; zoomorphic elements with all animals wearing collars; an abundance of stitches that divide the elements; an axis of symmetry; a perceptible Moorish style, as well as an absence of the human figure and geometric motifs.

SYMBOLISM

Not much is known about the symbolic meaning of the iconographic elements of Serrano embroidery. However, it is possible to trace the origin of the motifs to Egyptian, Assyrian or Iberian cultures, to which later influences were added.

The meaning of this multitude of plants and animals is mostly lost today, and they are embroidered out of love for the inherited art form, weaved by the decorative desire of the embroiderers and possibly with some kind of intention that remains unknown.

However, some elements that form part of the design have a clear significance. For example, inside the animals there is usually a heart symbolising life; and around the throat, a collar separating the body from the head, showing that the animal depicted is dead, clearly a Mudéjar art influence, an art movement from late mediaeval period in the Iberian Peninsula that had mixed influences from both Islamic and Christian cultures and traditions. On some occasions, the collar and the heart appear on the same animal, reflecting the loss of the symbolism attributed to these elements centuries ago by the prevailing cultural norms.

Unlike other types of popular embroidery, the popular embroidery in the Sierra de Francia is difficult to learn due to the large number of different stitches and motifs that embroiderers have to master. Serrano embroidery must always be taught using the ancient method by which artisans learn all crafts, i.e. by being apprentices in a school, as this craft is almost impossible to be self-taught.